Encampment Again

• Day:  95
• Start:  1537
• End:  1552
• Miles:  15
• Hours:  7
• High temp:  84
• Low temp:  42
• People met:  5

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A beautiful little creek with an unusual rock outcrop as a background 

The 2 hr climb is out of the way, now just some small ups. Wyoming has many beautiful meadows providing a pleasan feel to my walk. 

This meadow appears soon after the summit

The forest is healthier here as well

About 6 miles south of Battle Pass, I glance up the trail and see another hiker coming towards me. A familiar look about this hiker, it's Scout!  I'm so pleased to see him on the trail, he is always someone that makes the trail special. We chat about what we've done and who's hiking with him, enjoying our mini reunion. We wish each other well and a pleasant hike as we part. 

Scout

I'm heading for Battle Pass to tie into my Wyoming Great Basin hike. Scout suggests I text his wife, Frodo, for assistance in getting to Encampment. I have just enough signal to send a text but I don't seem to be able to receive.  I have no idea if she got the text for help or not. 

My rest spot by this pleasant stream

Shorthy after taking a break I see 3 hikers coming towards me, it's Guyonabuffalo!  Again the joyous reunion is repeated as we chat about what we've done. So good to see Guy, he is another great hiker to travel with. In parting wishes for a good safe finish with no snow as they start Colorado. 

I reach my destination for the day, Battle Pass. 

Tied it together 

I remember when I started the Great Basin section from here, I wondered then what it was like on the other side of those trees, now I know. Well in my text to Frodo I estimated that I'd be here at 1400 hrs, I actually arrived 1 hour earlier that that. With no signal at all now I have know way of reaching her. I stand on the shoulder of the summit and ask for rides from the 5 cars that pass during that hour. Then as if by magic Frodo appears promptly at 1400 hrs, I am so thankful and relieved.  A 12 mile ride to the Lazy Acres campground in Riverside where I can pitch my tent, do laundry, shower and have access to a small store and restaurants. Frodo is camping here as well in her RV. She'll be heading to Steamboat Springs on Thursday, I plan to ride along. 

Goodbye Colorado

• Day:  94
• Start:  1510
• End:  1537
• Miles:  27
• Hours:  13
• High temp:  82
• Low temp:  32
• People met:  2

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Slept in the ghost forest

Howling their morning songs, a group of coyotes waken me about 0500. I rest until 0600 as it seems chilly outside. The landscape has changed, I'm reminded of New Mexico by the Colorado border. The trail is dusty and rocky. Bikes can use the trail as well, they tend to pulverize the soil making dust. There are more open

meadows and fewer sources of water. 

A long valley I must traverse

I'm looking for a good source of water to load up for a 9 mile dry section. Well I found the water and something else, a problem. 

Now what?

There's a log to help me cross

So I used the log to cross the stream then gathered my water, everything worked out fine. 

The haze moves back in today, so the views are muted

The trail swiftly becomes an ATV trail as well, now wider but with more rocks exposed. I hike a roller coaster trail until about 1530 hrs, a little up and a little down. 

The meadows are turning golden, the Fall feeling is here. 

So the best part of the day was finishing Colorado. In retrospect I saw many splendid views and lots of wild life in Colorado. The towns were great and I met many nice people along the way.  Happy I hiked through Colorado when I did. 

At last

The State line on the CDT

Big acomplishment, happy

I still have hiking time left in the day, so I carry on. Tomorrow I expect to finish with this section and tie into the section I did from Encampment through the Great Basin. 

Granite

• Day:  93
• Start:  1488
• End:  1510
• Miles:  22
• Hours:  11
• High temp:  84
• Low temp:  32
• People met:  6

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This mornings trail in the Mt. Zirkle Wilderness

Blue sky this morning without a whisper of a breeze. In the far distance I can see a bit of a haze from the fires. Just the sound of the crunch of my boots on the decomposed granite is all that I hear.  I enjoy the serene quiet as I hike. 

Familiar feeling granite

I gather water from a nice running stream

 I climb comfortably until I'm above the timberline, then the winds come. The morning chill requires me to wear my rain jacket and gloves. The midmorning wind requires that I keep my gear on. The open granite reminds me of the Sierras, I feel at home in this familiar feeling landscape.

Near the top of my climb 

Just before I start to descend 

You can see the distant haze

I see in the distance the haze has increased, but I still seem to be smoke free. With so many fires in the western states I am impressed that the sky is as clear as it is today.  The entire afternoon is a descent, once I'm in the forest the chilly winds become a nice breeze. I gather some more water and continue deeper into the forest. Today with my pepperoni I try something new, mayonnaise. The results are delicious as the mayonnaise adds flavor and additional fat. I can feel the extra power from the fat as I start my afternoon hike. I'm delighted to discover that the thimbleberries are getting ripe, I sample a few as I walk by, sweet and delicious. Suddenly I'm in the ghost forest, ravaged by an ancient fire. The trail is nice through here so I'm traveling fast. 

Ghost forest

 I start a little climb to the next valley and come upon a lama train. 

They are a bit concerned about the camera

Once I reach to bottom the temperature climbs into the 80's. Thankfully I'm at the end of my 20 miles so I think I'll just take it easy and find a good camp site.  Another good day. I have to say that once my food is gone I don't seem to have a lot of power to continue. I have depleted most of my fat reserves. Thankfully,I do have plenty of food to carry me through so that's all right. 

The Mt. Zirkle Wilderness

• Day:  92
• Start:  1467
• End:  1488
• Miles:  21
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  70
• Low temp:  41
• People met:  ~20

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That's what was thought, the mountain top looked like a set of rabbit ears 

A couple of miles in, this is a big recreation area for Steamboat Springs. 

I pace back and forth and scuff the asphalt as I wait in the morning chill.  Austin, a local triple crowner, has just arrived and will give me a ride to the trailhead, a blessing.  He is a young man perhaps in his late 20's. When I offer money for his fuel, I hear the commen phrase, "so many people have helped me when I hike that I'm just paying it forward." Kindness that extends forever as people help each other without thought to compensation, this is one of the wonderful things I love about the hiker community. 

Winds from 15mph to 20mph forecasted today and they are every bit that. 

 

The trail is within the forest and is gentle with short and easy grades. 

This section has plenty of water and beautiful lakes

Another pretty little lake

I'm not in a wilderness so everything is acceptable on the trail, bikes and ATVs. Here it is Saturday and Steamboaters are out enjoying the trail too. I am passed by many bikes and I must say they are all polite and courteous. When I hear the ATVs I am disappointed because of the dust, exhaust, and noise. There are three of them in front of me that stop regularly so I catch up to them. Finally I just stop for an extended rest, letting them get some distance, this works. 

ATV 

Thankfully the forest is a buffer to the high winds. The constant roar of wind in the tress is present. I watch as trees wave with the force exerted on them. I'm concerned as about 40% of the forest is dead and standing. Tonight I've got to make sure my camp is located in a healthy section. 

Back in the wildrrness, just hikers now

On a positive note that mighty wind has cleared much of the smoke from the western states fires, plus no thunderheads. The threat of rain is nonexistent this week. I've reached my 20 miles early today and am tired. I think about adding more miles, then a protected camp site presents itself. So I stop early in the day make camp and promptly nap, ahhh pleasant  

Camped just beyond that rise. 

Steamboat Springs Zero

• Day:  91
• Start:  0
• End:  0
• Miles:  0
• Hours:  0
• High temp:  83
• Low temp:  40
• People met:  too many to count

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Breakfast at the Paramont

Chicken and waffles with elk gravy, huge

The scissors remove the weeks of unavoidable neglect.  The skillful stylist carefully trims my hair and beard and now I feel civilized, it that a good thing?  I pick up some sweat bands from the local sporting goods store and mail a few items home that are not needed. Then the rest of the day is relaxing like a Sunday afternoon, everyone needs a weekend. 

Nice replica

Hope this had a air cushion seat

Now this is something that a lot of towns out here don't have, yayyy 

I'm able to line up a ride to the trailhead at 0700 hrs tomorrow. This is going to be the last section of Colorado, seems hard to fathom. 

Steamboat Springs

• Day:  90
• Start:  1449
• End:  1467
• Miles:  18
• Hours:  7
• High temp:  67
• Low temp:  32
• People met:  1

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Magnificent aspens along the road 

The mooing was intermittent during the night, punctuated with the occasional coyote calls. Altogether the sounds where comforting as they crept into my half sleep. The chill morning temperatures still exist, I see frost on the grasses as I walk. The dirt road has been recently graded so the walk is easy.  More open fields come into view as I drop away from the forest. The scent of cows is I the air and it offends my senses. 

Very smooth for a dirt road

A cow spots me from his field and starts to move with intention in my direction.  Movement towards me is unusual as they always end up running away, so I'm getting concerned.  What pops into my mind is this animal a bull because moving towards me seems aggressive. I speak sharply to the animal and it halts with a curious look. A little further down the road 2 cows do the same maneuver drawing the same response from me. Perhaps the rancher calls the cows in the mornings and they thought I was him, anyway most unusual. 

Soon I'm at the 10 mile asphalt road walk along highway 14 and 40. Luckily traffic is light so I feel relatively comfortable walking on the shoulder. 

Highway 14

A range of mountains out here is called the Rabbit Ears Range. I'm almost to highway 40 and now have a view of the namesake mountain top for the range. 

The mountain top has ears like a rabbit. Hope you can see that in the picture. 

The haze that I mentioned before has thickened and seems to be getting worse by the moment. Appearantly there are many fires all along the West coast plus in Idaho and Montana. Health alerts are out for Steamboat Springs. This explains the slight cough I've experienced since yesterday. 

Luckily I only need to hike up highway 40 only 2 miles to the trailhead. 

Once in Steamboat Springs I secure a room, do laundry and shower. Now I'm ready to retrieve my boxes and carry out the rest of my chores. Great news Carolyn sent new pants in the mail with special modified Velcro patches on the pockets, reinforced zipper for my phone pocket and nicely hemmed.  I move down the street to the Big Agnes Headquarters store. Big Agnes makes all kinds of camping gear. I have a tent and sleeping bag of theirs. My tent pole sack is starting to fail, they fix it immediately, very nice folks there. 

Now for a late breakfast, just down the road is the Back Door and they serve breakfast all day. 

The Back Door

Eggs inside

Steamboat Springs has a free bus system making moving about this stretched out town very easy. They have a Walmart so I get my shopping done there. Back at my room I wash and water proof my rain fly and ground tarp. A good day in this pleasant town. 

A Frosty Day

• Day:  89
• Start:  1428
• End:  1449
• Miles:  21
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  55
• Low temp:  30
• People met:  5

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Grapple from last night

High winds blew most of the night, they brought some light rain. By morning the winds were gone and temperature had dropped below freezing. All the rain drops on my rain fly were frozen. I must have packed an extra pound if frozen water on my rain fly. The air is crisp just like a Fall day in Tahoe. I'm wearing my rain gear for warmth as well as my gloves. Not until about 1130 hrs does the sun actually melt the frozen north side. 

It seems that I'm at the edge of a prairie.  After hiking in the Rockies for about a month I'm amazed at this wide open land. The mountains here are not as high, however there is a range between here and Wyoming.

The distant prairie 

A better prairie shot

The trail takes me in what feels like a circuitous route. Since the mountains are not so high here all the climbs are fairly easy. I come upon water, while gathering some I check my next water source, Steamboat Springs, about 26 miles away. Appearantly there is water but it is cow water. I prefer to carry more than take cow water. Cow water is any water that cows have access to, it may even run clear but still should be treated. After hiking around so many cows I've come to realize they are very filthy animals. So I load up with the water that I figure I'll need in this cool climate. One nice thing about the coolness is I don't perspire hardly at all. 

Time to dry the ice chips

Where I stopped to dry my gear is the top of the climb for today. The next 25 miles are a road walk downhill to Steamboat Springs.  So my Colorado mountain experience is changing back to cows, dirt roads and flat land.  I figure about 95 miles left in Colorado. Time to start thinking about Wyoming and the Wind River Range. 

This part of the road walk is pleasant.