Saturday, August 8, 2026

Time for the decision

August 7, 2026


I awake early after a fitful night. I have come to the conclusion if the smoke continues for my health, I must abort this hike. I have thought of every way possible to make this work. I have covered all the contingencies but I can't control the fires. I have planned for months and finally I'm on the trail again, a wonderful free feeling that I have longed for. In 2 days my lungs hurt, if the air is clear I will normalize, if not I fear I will continue to damage my health. Sadly, I lay starring at the ceiling of my tent, telling myself I will know the answer when I rise.

I retrieve my food bag and break camp. The time has come. The air is even more smoky than yesterday, I have no idea how long this will last but when it keeps getting worse I feel the end is not close. I've got to abort.

The smoke is getting worse as I hike

I backtrack to a BLM road, 103, and head east. I know I-15 lies in that direction. I can smell the smoke, not just a hint but a real smell. I'm sad about this but I believe I've made the right decision, better to stay healthy and hike another day.

The hike out is about 10 miles. On the way a herd of cattle occupy the road and both sides, maybe 30 head. I have my reflective umbrella deployed for shade, amazing at cutting the heat. Well I suppose the cattle have never seen anything like me approaching them, a man with a pack and a shiny thing over his head, so they start trotting, but not away from me perpendicular into the fields, but staying on the road in front of me. This situation is not optimal as now I have fresh cow droppings to avoid and cow dust to contend with. I start shouting at the cows to get off the road, all but 2 comply. I round a turn to find even more cattle in the fields A little further I see 3 cowboys on horseback herding. My cattle dust problem is resolved. I wave as I pass them, they are busy but manage a courteous wave back. One rider stops to talk with me a bit. I explain my story and that I'm headed to I-15 to get a ride. He says "if I see you when I'm finished I'll give you a ride". I thank him, wishing him a good day. I'm now walking along 1-15 with a deep creek heavily filled with brush and the freeway right-of-way fence, no way to access the freeway here. I figure another mile or so to the freeway ramps and the possibility of a ride. Suddenly the cowboys appear hauling their horses and dogs in a trailer. They stop and ask me if I want a ride. It's a rhetorical question as I throw my pack in the bed and climb in. These Wyoming "cowboys" are 2 young men and a young woman. Very pleasant people and comfortable to converse with. I apologize for herding the cows hoping I don't make their job harder. In unison they said you helped us, we've been having a heck of a time getting these cows to move. One offered, we need to hire you to help us. Laughter all around. True to his word I got a ride back to Lima.

Once back in civilization I can see the active fires in the West. My decision timing is confirmed.

Fires in the West, more than I can remember

Air quality also confirms my decision

So reluctantly I'm heading home, already planning what I will do different next time. Maybe staring in July to miss, as the locals say, "Wyoming fire season".

Tags: cdt

Smoky

August 6, 2026

📍 Sawmill Creek — 44.507709, -112.555633 · Alt: 7774 ft (2369m)


• Days Out: 2

• Hours: 12

• Start Mile: 2193.9

• End Mile: 2203.9

• Total Miles: 10 mi

• High Temp: 89 °F

• Low Temp: 46 °F

• Thru Hikers Met: 5

Sometime in the night the wind stopped. My tent is pitched in a bit of a draw, thought I was high enough to be away from the smoke. Since the wind has stopped there is nothing to keep the smoke away and it settled fairly thick.

This is what I woke up to

About 4 miles away is the next water source, I'm carrying 3 liters just in case. Upon arrival there are cows are in the area. Much of the trail now reminds me of a cattle ranch. The cows have created so many different trails that it is easy to take the wrong one. They have also fouled the stream that had water.

The cows have trampled the stream bed, even up the hill

As the trail winds along the dry creek bed where water was noted on the map, there is another creek coming joining the dry one, hope rises. Every point of access is fouled by cows. I continue on looking for the next source. I find one with an "area" that is not fouled. Load up with 4 liters after enjoying a big hydration effort of multiple drinks. To fill 4 liters it takes about an hour. Seems the new Sawyer filter is not allowing water to flow properly. I flushed it last night, this gave me little joy. An hour to get water is way too long, it severely cuts into my day.

Little Beaver Creek cow free area, kinda, to get water

Here's the valley that leads to water

The smoke is worse today than yesterday. My initial hope was the fires would get under control so I could enjoy the beautiful vistas. Not so, the big problem is my lungs are already starting to hurt and I am coughing. It is hard work hiking the uphill climbs having to breath deeply, seems like I'm not getting enough oxygen.

There's one of those cows

The trail is a mixture of cow trails and the CDT. Extra attention is required to stay on the correct trail. The coolness of a forest spotted with open green meadows is now the normal. I make it to another water source, Sawmill Creek. 4 liters later, rest then move on. Now the trail winds through some more conifers offering some shade and a refreshing change to the character of the trail.

The trees are a nice change, more cows not so much

The sun starts to set and so I'm looking for a place to sleep. The landscape has changed to the habitat of bears, this means I've got to hang my food bag tonight. I'm pleased with my hang, it's about 11' in the air and a good 7' from the tree trunk, looks safe. A good distance away and upwind I pitch my tent. As I get settled in for the night I am wondering how long this smoke will last.

Tags: cdt