Dismal Falls

• Day:  50
• Start:  608.5
• End:  623.8
• Miles:  15.3
• Hours:  6
• High temp:  83
• Low temp:  55
• People met:  3

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Dismal Falls

Not to far in is Dismal Falls on Dismal Creek, not sure why is called that but nothing about it seems dismal.  To get there is a short .3 mile hike from the AT.  I really wanted to see this spot as it seems like a favorite place for locals and hikers to swim.  This morning the trail starts off with a very relaxed tread that threads through many water sources. I lost count of the number of foot bridges I crossed.  

Foot bridge in the background 

 

 Lots of rhododendrons tunnels that finally broke away into a evergreen forest.  The scent in the forest was so pleasant and familiar. 

 

Evergreen forest with a wonderful scent

Before I start today's rather big climb I pass this pleasant little pond. 

 

Nice little man made pond. 

Now the climb, I leave the peaceful water environment and start on a steep slope.  Once I acquire the top the forest has changed to the bare tree look. 

 

Leaves on the ground indicate these trees were live last year. 

More rocks on this trail than I've seen in several days. I've got to slow my pace a little to negotiate these obstacles. 

 

Actually this is quite the step down. 

I come to what looks like I've got to slide down a big rock. I use my poles to ease myself down using the small rocks as a step.  This is the first rock scramble of what I expect further north I will see many more. 

I make it to Sugar Run Road, a gravel road that leads to among other things the Woods Hole Hostel. This is one of the most raved about hostels on the AT. So I gotta go see what the fuss is all about.  

 

The main house

 

One of the gardens

 

Front porch hiking discussion group

 

The morning view from the porch

 The couple that own this little farm provide organic food from their garden and their animals to feped themselves and guest hikers. They have a very updated functional hostel. The original buildings are actual log cabins. I'm in the bunk house in the loft. Below the loft is a common room with a big couch, table and snack/refreshment area. Both buildings have nice porches allowing guests to enjoy the day in shade.  Showers and laundry is provided with the price of the stay. I must say I'm very happy to arrive here as Maple and Brian (now Glove) are working for stay.  I had lost track of Glove since Haiawassie and Maple pulled off the trail to change gear and hike with her dad. So nice to see these fine young people and know they are still within my hiking sphere   There is dinner and just before we gather in a circle on the lawn for a moment of silence than we introducee ourselves and say what we are thankful for, a nice touch to bring people together. A very nice bunch of hikers assembled here making for a pleasant evening. 

He lives 

. 

Ridge Walk

• Day:  49
• Start:  590.1
• End:  608.5
• Miles:  18.4
• Hours:  8
• High temp:  82
• Low temp:  57
• People met:  4

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Every day more things are blooming

The outside is shrouded in a fog from last nights rain. I start my day with a .5 mile road walk followed by a climb.  Once on the ridge I can see the valleys on both sides are still foggy.  From my observation point the fog almost looks like big lakes.  As I walk I can hear the mournful sound of cattle calling from somewhere in the dense fog. The morning is cool making my climb more enjoyable. The birds always seem to great the day with happy songs. I notice as the day wears on the bird songs lessen and consist mostly of warnings about a human in the forest. 

The ups and downs today are reasonable and the trail has few rocks except for a couple of miles on the ridge. 

 

I notice this little guys running for his life. I will call him squishy. 

 

More and more dogwoods are blooming

Dogwoods appear occasionally in the forest with the sun highlighting the blossoms they almost sparkle like stars in a light free part of the woods.  I marvel each time I see these blossoms, always trying to capture the beauty with my camera. 

 

A pretty stand 

 

A nice ridge top section

 

The angle of the sun helps create an intense color

Spring sun helps highlight the unique colors of all the flowers and blossoms. Sometimes the colors are so intense I can taste an associated flavor. 

After desending for a while I emerge from the forest into some open grassland. The sun is bright and I can feel the heat on my body. I am already missing to cooler shade of the forest but torn because of the beauty of the grasslands. 

Open space always provides a spirit lift

As if my desire for a cool forest is answered I swing around the corner to the shady side of the mountain.  

Dogwood offering it's beauty up close 

 

A stand of yellow flowers providing another delightful moment 

I can hear a river and vehicles on a road. I know I'm coming to the end of today's section.  I notice the river which is actually named Kimberling Creek. In a little while I come to a suspension bridge over the Creek. 

The suspension bridge over Kimberling Creek

 

The bridge moves with each step 

This bridge is very narrow, not much room for two large people to pass comfortably. With each step I take, the bridge moves up and down plus side to side. I keep my strides and footfalls reasonable to help minimize the movement.  Once on the other side I am at the highway. The fun thing about ending here is .5 miles up the road is Trent's Grocery.  This store has burgers and such from a kitchen. 

 

Trent's Grocery 

Guess I don't have to say anymore. After my lunch and three large beverages, two Gatorades and one V8  I feel fairly full.  I must say I'm spoiled with the easy access to hostels.  Desiring a shower I give the Days Inn Hostel a call securing a ride and bunk for the night. 

Bland

• Day:  48
• Start:  574.3
• End:  590.1
• Miles:  15.8
• Hours:  7
• High temp:  78
• Low temp:  55
• People met:  7

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Loading up for the trail 

 

The front of the house faces an ope field. 

 

View from the behind the car

The alarm sounds all too soon waking me for another day.  I'm ready in short order, moving my gear downstairs to the mud room.  Coffee, eggs and bacon for breakfast then three of us are ready to be shuttled to the trailhead.   Popsicle is going south and MGD and I are going north.  

 

View of the hostel from the road up to the trailhead.  

I finally start hiking at 0900 hrs a little late today from my usual start time.   The trail winds down and away from the ridge walk of yesterday. Mostly I am moving away from the Burkes Garden Valley.  The trail is moderate regarding ups and downs.  There are lots of water from springs.  I'm hiking on the lea side of the mountain so I'm in the calm, but I can hear the wind in the tree tops along the ridge.  I come to a 2 mile steep climb, I'm thankful it's in the early cooler hours.  Once this climb is completed there will be no more like this today, this knowledge is always a spirit lifter.  

I meet Little Cheese and his brother Einstein they are contacting a hostel owner for a shuttle from interstate 52.  With the forecast of thunderstorms this evening I ask them if I could be included.  We agree to meet at the road just prior to interstate 52 which is a couple miles from the small berg of Bland. 

 

View from our agreement place. 

 

The last section of the day

I have 3.2 miles to complete today's hike and mert the hostel shuttle driver.  The sky is changing to a darker more threatening appearance. The wind is picking up and cooling down as evening approaches.  I think to myself, will the rain start before I gain the meeting point?  All three of us arrive about the same time followed by our shuttle driver, thankfully beating the rain. 

Tonight,  there are 7 hikers in this hostel which is a converted ranch house.  Thr place is clean an comfortable, a good place to beat the rain. As I close the storm has moved in and the rain is here. 

God's Thumbprint

• Day:  47
• Start:  554.1
• End:  574.3
• Miles:  20.2
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  81
• Low temp:  56
• People met:  9

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Tina coming to take me to the trail. 

Sorry no pictures of Tina's great breakfast. It consists of everything homemade egg bake, sausage, bread, french toast with blackberries and Brie, and fresh fruit. Tthe condiments are homemade  honey from their hives, maple syrup and blackberry jam.  I ate enough to fuel me until 1130 hrs. 

The trail winds up through a open lush field. I try to walk carefully on the trail to avoid getting my shoes and pants wet from the grass.  Shortly I'm in the forest and I don't have to worry about the wet grass anymore. A white tail doe jumps across the trail fairly close to me. She freezes just off the trail but bounds away as I reach for my camera. 

 

This mornings forest

 

Holston  River bridge is just barely out of the water

Here is a picture two days ago from Tina at 1/4 Way Hostel

The good news is I'm able to cross Holston River bridge. Yesterday it was still under water. 

 

The sun appears

 

 This guy is crawling across the trail. Very attractive yellow coloring. 

The trail is easy this morning. I stop at a stream for a bite to eat before ascending the 4 mile climb. 

 

My lunch spot just across the foot bridge

The sun has come out and the temperature is climbing as I climb this grade. The steep tread requires that I rest occasionally. I am sweating so much I must wring out my headband so I will continue to work for me. I stop at a strong, clear stream to gather water. I have some Nuun brand electrolyte replenishment tablets. I put one in my water bottle. I can tell I've still got electrolytes in my system as my sweat burns my eyes.  I know I'm going to sweat a lot on this climb so I figure it's best to be proactive. 

A bright spot on the climb,  a black and white skink darts across the trail. Skinks run and slither like a snake, they are fast little creatures. 

I come to an open field about 2 miles from the top. The incline lessens for these last 2 miles. 

Open fields

 

 View to the east

 

Just before entering the forest this ancient tree stands guard. 

Now the trail becomes rocky for the last bit to the top. On top is an old ranger shelter turned into the Chestnut Knob hiker shelter.  It is surrounded by grass and has a great view of God's Thumprint Valley. 

 

God's Thumprint Valley 

Chestnut Knob Shelter 

 

The trail I came up to Chestnut Knob

After some water and food I strike out for another 6 miles to round out my day. The trail now skirts the valley following the ridge top. Splendid views are available through the trees of God's Thumprint. Once at my road crossing I have a signal so I give a call to the owner of St Luke's Hostel which is 8 miles down the road.  Mark says he'll be right up to collect me. St Luke's is in this splendid valley.  The grass here stays green for a long time and is famous for fattening cattle. This valley is the highest in Virginia.  Burkes Garden is the real name of this valley, but itt is sometimes referred to as "God's Thumbprint" because of its view from the air, this mountain-ringed bowl is 10 miles in diameter and filled with some of the most fertile farmland in the state.  

The hostel was built in 1904. It was built well and seems to have most of the original mill work. I've got a room upstairs with a nice four poster. Breakfast in the morning, I been treated to some wonderful food these last three days. I see how St Luke's compares. 

Back on the trail

• Day:  46
• Start:  544.0
• End:  554.1
• Miles:  10.1
• Hours:  4
• High temp:  61
• Low temp:  44
• People met:  1

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Murray and her delicious breakfast casserole 

With no sense of urgency we hikers rise to coffee and breakfast. Murray has created another wonderful breakfast which is quickly demolished by our appetites. 

 

At the Barn restaurant parking lot. From the left Blood Mountain, Murray, Neo, Craig. 

Everyone decided to have lunch before hiking. I could not fit anymore in after our big breakfast, so I left the group there. 

I'm back on the trail at 1100 hrs, a slow but positive start. The rain has stopped, the clouds have lifted and thinned allowing just a hint of sun. The trail is a bit of a slog in places for the first mile then I'm into the forest and the trail dries becoming mostly solid. 

 

Flowering trees grace the first part of this section

 

Beautiful farmland 

 

 

I really enjoy this section 

The lush greenery gives way the forest and the trail drys out.  I come upon the 1/4 way mark another milestone. 

 

1/4 of the waypoint 

 

The streams are swollen and running clear

One of my concerns is the creeks will all be running muddy a condition that would rapidly plug my water filter.  The good news is all the streams I crossed ran clear. 

More farmland as I come to Highway 610

I delightfully emerge from the forest into more lush farmland. There is a hostel on .8 mile down highway 610 .  I decide to go to the hostel to avoid the evening rain and simply give my feet a break. Because I started so late in the day 10 mikes is about it.  Highway 610 is a rural farm road with no traffic and no ride as I walk the .8 mile. I am greeted by a medium sized dog, Hazelnut, that is sounding the alarm of my arrival. She is doing her job and not trying to attack.  I'm not sure how to approach this house because it's all one big structure. 

 

1/4 Way Hostel

With the help of the owner, Tina a '04 AT thru hiker,  I enter the small boxy mud room to remove my boots and get the tour. I'm the only one here right now so I get a shower and make myself at home. The rest of the fellows arrive a couple of hours later. Upstairs is the owners side in the original house and the bunk room is the long newer section. The bunk room has 10 wide bunks with nice plastic covered mattresses.  We are to use our own sleeping bags and her pillow. Everything is nice and clean, a refreshing change from some places I've stayed.  I am told  Tina makes a wonderful breakfast so I'm looking forward to that as I fall asleep.