Mountain Home Cabbin

• Day:  79
• Start:  958.1
• End:  969.7
• Miles:  11.6
• Hours:  5
• High temp:  71
• Low temp:  64
• Thru hikers met:  2

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Mountain Home Cabbin

Off to a slow start today at 0915 hrs. The sun is out with a thin cloud layer. Today's plan is to hike to Front Royal and stay at the Mountain Home Cabbin Hostel which is very close to the trail. I've got a resupply box at the post office, because of our holiday they are closed today.  Since the hiking distance is only 11 miles I am not rushed to start.  The trail has drained in most places from yesterday's deluge. In one section I find a nice bloom of mountain laurels with a pleasant scent in the air. 

 

 

It may not show up here really well, but there is a nice bloom of mountain laurels along this stretch. 

One last crossing of Skyland Drive and I'm heading to the last of the Shenandoah Park.  This last section is quiet and beautiful. I enjoy my last bit of the park hiking on a nicely graded tread. . I come to the permit station where I deposit my permit. 

 

Looking back into the park. Permit box on the left. 

A few more steps to the park boundary sign. A day hiking couple offer to take my picture there. 

 

The north end of the Shenandoah Park on the AT

The trail feels different now, not as special I guess. I hike the last couple of miles to the highway where the hostel is close by.  As I approach the highway I'm greeted by 2 PCT hikers providing trail magic.  Junior and Blaze hiked the PCT in '15. They offer me a beer and some chips. We chat a while then they point out another car offering additional trail magic. Karen and her mom are as delighted to see me as I am to see them. They build me a delicious BLT, heavy on the mayo and bacon, plus a plate of Greek salad with roasted chicken, a hard boiled egg, some fresh fruit and fresh baked banana bread.  A true feast of healthy delicious foods. Karen and her mom dropped her AT thru hiking Aunt and Uncle off at this point 15 years ago, making this trailhead meaningful to them.  

 

Karen and her mom, what a wonderful spirit lifting afternoon. 

Junior and Blaze making my day with a cool beverage. 

In an effervescent mood I take my leave. I have .3 of a mile to go before the hostel and I rest.  The Mountain Home Cabbin is a hostel located on the grounds of a early 1800s home under renovation to become a B&B. The Cabbin, (this is how they spell it), is an old slave quarters that has been renovated and is a very nice 8 person hostel. 

 

The Cabbin

Upstairs bunk room, I'm in the back on the left

 

The renovation project 

ElkWallow Wayside

• Day:  78
• Start:  942.0
• End:  958.1
• Miles:  16.1
• Hours:  6
• High temp:  69
• Low temp:  56
• Thru hikers met:  8

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View from South Mt. Marshall

This morning the mountains are in the clouds in some places. The expected monsoon did not occur so the forest is dry.  My planned hike in is 16 miles with a wayside thrown in for breakfast.  On the drive to the trailhead we spot a 1 to 2 year old bear lumbering across the road.  When ge hears the car he quickens his pace disappearing into the forest. Somehow this is not the same as seeing him on the trail. 

 

A moist not muddy tread

The trail crosses Skyland Drive many times this morning. One side trail goes to rattlesnake ridge. As I walk by the sign to rattlesnake ridge I realize I have zero interest in going to a place with that name. 

 

The fern section are very nice

 

It's like the whomping tree 

I arrive at the Wayside at 1030 hrs, still in time for breakfast.  Cheese and Einstein are already there placing their orders. 

 

ElkWallow Wayside 

 

Inside the wayside 

I breakfast on two fresh made egg bacon and English muffin sandwiches, followed with coffee and a banana.  With all this food I can hike the othe 8 miles without any problem.  The rest of the day I cross Skyland Drive a few more times, always keeping my eye out for Mr. Bear.  No more bear sighting today.  I consider the noise from the automobiles and motorcycles and think that perhaps this is too much noise for the bears to take so they move away from the road and trail. The last 1.2 mile of the day I see the rain come in fast. I can hear it coming hard so I stop to gear up, then the big fat rain is upon me. I rapidly close the distance on the trail. The tread is already running water and creating ponds in some places. At the highway, our pickup spot, so much rain is comping fown cars are pulling over. All three of us are under big trees hoping for some relief as we wait, but it seems little is provided. Finally our ride appears and relief is here.  Really another great day of hiking and an evening out of the storm. 

 

The Eye of the Storm

• Day:  78
• Start:  924.4
• End:  942.0
• Miles:  17.6
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  68
• Low temp:  59
• Thru hikers met:  2

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  View from the Franklin Cliffs

The breakfast buffet was honest filling food. I was able to eat and be on the trail by 0830 hrs. Just a quick side trail from the Lodge brings me back to the AT.  The air is cool with the sun shining.  I arrive at the Franklin Cliffs, stopping to enjoy to view. 

 This mornings trail

A pretty little stream

 

I'm always relaxed with a sense of calm on the nicely maintained section.  It is trying pushing the grasses aside to avoid ticks. 

The forecast for this afternoon is severe thunderstorms on into the evening. I feel as though I'm walking into the eye of the storm. I'm ready to select a campsite as soon as the weather changes. 

I turn a corner and see Little Cheese, (now just Cheese), and Einstein resting. They are concerned about the forecast as well and suggest we go to a hostel in Luray once we get to Thornton Gap.  I'm very interested in getting out of the mountains to escape another big weather event. 

Close to 8 miles I come to the Skyland Lodge. This is another modern feeling lodge so much different than the lodges of the West. 

 

Skyland Lodge

 

The Dining room, gift shop and tap room

 

Very nice coffee mugs

Lunch is pulled pork tacos with a side salad

The luxury of having a restaurant right on the trail is a delight that I do not overlook  I planned to carry less food and ready I didn't need to have any of my trail food today.

 

Enormous tread due to the heavy traffic 

 

View Little Stony Man Cliffs

 

The weather is changing. Through the clouds I can see the tops of thunderheads in the distance 

I'm now in a section of rocky outcrops and unnamed cliffs all sporting nice views to the west.  I close my hiking day with a side trip up Mary's Rock. There is a tremendous view from this vantage point. 

Mary's Rock

Cheese at Mary's Rock

 

Einstein 

In a short time we all make Thorntons Gap and our ride appears. Alison owns Open Arms Hostel, she is our driver.  Showers, another town dinner and a good sleep in a friendly environment, a good end to a fine.day. 

 

 

The Lodge

• Day:  77
• Start:  902.8
• End:  924.4
• Miles:  21.6
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  65
• Low temp:  49
• Thru hikers met:  1

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Big Meadow Lodge

I'm on the trail at 0837 hrs with my destination, Big Meadows 21.7 miles away.  The wind is up today clearing the low lying clouds away.  This is my third day in Shenandoah Park, I'm hoping to see some animals before I leave. I figure I've got about three days left in the park.  On the ride to Smith Roach Gap, my start spot we spotted a turkey on the side of the road. 

The spring flowers are waning and the forest staples, the mountain laurel and the rhododendrons, are not in the forest today. Lots of green ferns provide a beautiful backdrop for today's hike. 

 

Some sunlight makes it's way through 

The trail ascends this morning for about 1 mile. There is a reward view towards the top. 

Westerly view from Hightop Mountain 

I must say the forest is homogenous today with little unusual features to report. I find the occasional flooded tread which forces me to hop rocks or travel in the foliage. I'm pleased that the wind has dried out the foliage so I'm staying dry as long as I stay out of the water on the tread.  

 

This rock is the best unusual feature so far today

About 1600 hrs the trail crosses Lewis Falls trail. This is a short .4 mile detour to the Big Meadows Wayside. So I decide to go for meal. The wayside has a small cafe that serves Sysco food, (I saw the delivery truck leave as I was arriving).  So my expectations are low about great food.  There is also a gift shop and a small store with some car camping supplies and snack food. So I get a hamburger followed by hand scooped blackberry ice cream. The blackberry ice cream is the Park's signature dessert. I do not have any cell service up here so I ask my server if there is a way to contact the Lodge to check on availability of a room. She happily says she will help and finds out there is 6 rooms available. So I grab one figuring they will be gone in a short time.  One mile up the road I arrive at the Lodge.  

 

The Lodge

 

The great room is now the dining room because of the renovations

 

Lodge rooms and cabins

 

 

View from my balcony

The Lodge is being renovated so the great room is not available to use as a lounging .  There is a Tap room that has a more modern feel instead of a classic lodge feel. My room is nice with rustic beds and wood paneling. 

My room 

 

View from the Lodge deck

This property does not seem to be built during the Great Depression by our public forces. The massive log and rock feel of Mt Hood is not at all present here.  

The turkey was my only animal all day. I wonder if the increased human traffic on this Memorial Day weekend may be making the animals move to more quiet parts of the mountains. 

Stanimals

• Day:  76
• Start:  902.8
• End:   902.8
• Miles:  0
• Hours:  0
• High temp:  65
• Low temp:  59
• Thru hikers met:  8

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Adam the owner of Stanimals hiked the AT in 2012

The forecast for SNP today is for rain and a flood watch until 1700hrs. I've decided to zero thus avoiding this extreme weather event.  I walk through town and notice the Shenandoah River is running high and muddy already. 

 

Shenandoah River

Word reaches us that the Park rangers have closed some sections of the trail due to extreme water flow.  The information confirms my decision to remain in town today.  

So Adam,"Stanimal", saw a need for shuttle service and a hostel in Waynsbrough when he thru hiked.  I can attest he is quite busy this time of year.   Interestingly he runs his hostel from his house. We bunk in the basement and have laundry, shower and a bathroom there. Upstairs is a sun room attached to the back of the house that is the common room. 

 

Stanimals home in a regular neighborhood 

I plan on hiking tomorrow as the storm is passing.  

900

• Day:  75
• Start:  881.9
• End:  902.8
• Miles:  20.9
• Hours:  7
• High temp:  61
• Low temp:  54
• Thru hikers met:  1

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Blackrock Mountain, really a pile of black rocks on the top of the mountain, aptly named. 

Today is rainy with the trail in the clouds. I enjoy the quiet the mist creates in the forest, it is similar to the quiet condition of falling snow.  I find in many sections the grasses and plants are encroaching upon the tread. The problem with foliage on the trail is two fold, first ticks like to hang out in the ready for a passerby, second the heavy moisture transfers to my boots and pants. I've switched to summer boots that are not lined with a waterproof membrane, I did this for the cooler temperatures offered to my feet. So in with the waterproof feature my feet rapidly get soaked.  I haven't included any pictures of the obscured tread I guess because I am disappointed by it and I use my trekking poles to push my way through trying to avoid contact with my boots. 

 

A nice rest location 

 

This buck was drinking from a pool in the trail. He just didn't want to leave the area and kept crossing back and forth until I moved forward. 

The rain came in with more intensity as did the wind about 1130 hrs.  Now the pleasant morning hike is becoming more of a trudge.  However, in this weather I am using water at very low rate which is a positive feature. 

 

Attractive little stream. 

Just about to the end of today's hike I cross over the 900 mile mark, nice. 

Tomorrow is forecasted to be even more stormy weather so after today's hike I decide to go back to the hostel and wait out the storm. 

Shenandoah National Park

• Day:  74
• Start:  861.9
• End:  881.9
• Miles:  20
• Hours:  9
• High temp:  66
• Low temp:  58
• Thru hikers met:  5

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Lady Slippers

Today I start in the Shenandoah National Park, a section I've been looking forward to because of the hoped for beauty, animals and waysides. Waysides are places within the park that provide food, that means I get relief from hiker food and don't have to carry as much. I start at Rockfish Gap at 0930 hrs, a little late but the early morning was rainy so it balanced out. I walk a half a mile on the road then the trail takes off into the forest. Within 15 milutes I come across a self registration station. I get my permit for camping within the park and then continue hiking. Rain is forecasted for this afternoon so I install pack cover. The trees hold a lot of moisture and  every once in a while the breeze picks up and the trees shed their water in big fat drops. The trail is nice this morning with few negotiating hazards. The understory in the beginning is filled with ferns, making me think of the movie Jurassic Park.  Then I move into a zone where the mountain laurel is blooming in mass. All along the trail the mountain laurel is happening, some in white and some in pink. I'm not noticing any rhododendrons here today. The forest scent enlivened by the rain is sweet, earthy and spicy. 

Pink Mountain Laurel my favorite. 

I pass a huge boulder covered in moss, I figure it is picture worthy. 

 

 

The trail will cross the Skyway many times 

I come upon some semi balds, not really grassy expanses like I've seen in the past, however there is a bit of a view. 

I reach the almost summit of Bear Den Mountain finding it full of communication towers.  Along the side of the compound is a small mowed area with tractor seats mounted on steel bars, they make a strange little park. 

Tractor Park 

 

Day hikers and their pup at Berar Den Mountain 

 

Meadow on the flanks of Bear Den Mountain 

 

The green tunnel

 

Clouds move in in the afternoon 

An i nteresting change from normal trail signs is they are concrete posts with the attached information stamped into metal bands. 

SNP trail signage

 

The information requires a closer study than normal signs

About and hour befor my scheduled stop Point the rain starts gently falling. I use my umbrella to avoid getting too hot in my rain gear.  I'm not worried about the rain as much because I've arranged for a pickup to the local hostel. I wait 20 minutes and my ride arrives.