The Beautiful Slog

• Day:  30
• Start:  643
• End:  671
• Miles: 28 
• Hours:  13
• High temp:  72
• Low temp:  50
• People met:  2

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Yes that's the trail

Leaving Cuba with Old School this morning. A pleasant roadwalk for 8 miles followed by a 2000' climb in 3 miles. Cuba at 7000' is a high desert town and to the south are all the beautiful mesas and valleys, clearly desert.  What is fascinating is the north side of Cuba is bordered by mountains above 10,000'. The forest on the mountains is beautiful and reminds me the Sierras a little.  

A wonderful stream with 8" trout 

Incredibly, today is not a water carry or manage day as there is water everywhere. I don't even have to look for it as the water is a brook running right down the trail.  Plus as an added bonus, some of the meadows the trail crosses are about ankle deep in spring runoff. So it's a wet boots day. 

Flooding Not too bad here

Flooring worse here

This looks beautiful and it is, but it is also flooded all the way across

The scenery was just beautiful today, I hiked with a wet feet smile while in this section. The irony is I was so careful to avoid getting wet feet during all the water crossings while ascending, then came the meadows. 

Lots of Aspens today

Postholing 

Then came the patches of snow, sometimes it was possible to walk over the frozen crust, but as the day warmed postholing started to increase. Not only is this labor intensive, but the potential of twisting or even breaking a leg is possible.  The good news is there was only about a mile or so of snow. 

On to the next challenge of the day, blowdowns on the trail. 

Maybe about 3 miles of this fun

So after snaking around all the fallen trees the trail smoothed out and allowed a view. 

The trail continued to drop in altitude going through the different climates in the forest. Oaks began to appear then cacti turning the splendid mountain experience back to the normal New Mexico forest. I walked for miles in a soft pine needle carpeted trail, very pleasant. Oh my boots, well the late afternoon trail did not have flooding issues. I walk-dried my boots as much as possible then swapped fresh socks, my feet warmed and felt fine into the evening. 

Cuba

• Day:  28 & 29
• Start:  633
• End:  643
• Miles:  10
• Hours:  3.5
• High temp:  65
• Low temp:  37
• People met:  too many to count

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My last great views

The soft whine of big rigs moving on the highway remind me that resupply is but 10 miles away. After all that rain yesterday there is really no safe place to camp to avoid moisture. My tent fly is soaked inside and out, really so much water I have to ring it before stuffing. Residual water from the fly is now on the tent and ground cloth. If I was hiking today I would just lay everything out on the rocks here to dry. Fortunately, town is 10 miles away and I will dry my gear there. 

So I pack and start to hike, saying goodby to this incredible country. 

This mornings trail

Very little mud the morning  most of the trail is sand and then becomes dry. I can see the marks of others that have struggled in the mud, but today the trail is dry. 

Morning sun just cresting

Wash showing signs of recent water

The trail becomes a dirt road crossing a brushy valley. After 5 miles I connect with the state highway. Now I have hard pavement to Cuba. 

My first stop is the Cuban Cafe for some breakfast. A quick cleanup and a look in the mirror reminds me I could use a beard trim. 

Anyway breakfast is great complemented by a big milk and water I don't have to filter. 

Better than rocks for drying

Everything is out for airing and drying

My left trekking pole had the strap come loose, giving me fits for 200 miles. I figure they wat to fix it is by driving our a pin in the grip. This pin should release the strap allowing me to reinstall it properly. How to do it?  I find a pack of small nails at the store and the motel manager has a hammer. 10 minutes later it's fixed. 

The little shiny pin on the top was the key

So many hikers here in Cuba. I felt so alone on the trail, yet there were people all around me. We always kept about the same distance apart until town. The hotel is full yet only 2 cars in the parking lot. 

It's old but just what hikers need

Scout and Frodo are here with their son as well as Old School, Tiger Lilly, Iceman, and Hojo. We all met for dinner at El Bruno's, an excellent southwest food restaurant. The hiker community tonight was heartwarming and enjoyable. So thankful for Scout's insistence that everyone have dinner together, it truly deepens the tenuous bond we have at first into a positive lasting friendship. 

Left Tiger Lilly, One ld School, Shawn, Hojo, Iceman. Frodo and Scout. 

A 3000' climb is required leaving Cuba. The mountain is wet with all the rain, muddy trails, soggy meadows, and higher creeks. The forecast for the 27th is finally, no rain. I'm going to stay one more day in Cuba resting my feet and giving the trails a chance to dry.    This time gives me a opportunity to research the conditions ahead and develop a plan for continuing the trail. Currently the huge spring snow accumulations in the Colorado Rockies has made the trail impassable. The current main topic of discussion is where to continue the hike, The Great Basin or Canada, saving the Rockies for a later date.  So I'm researching the conditions to see what makes sense as doable.  I am frustrated as I want to hike from Mexico to Canada straight, now it seems I'll have to yoyo. When we yoyo it means complete the trail in one season, but we worked different sections, an example is, do New Mexico then the Great Basin then the Rockies then Glacier.  More on my plan later 

Thunder Storm

• Day:  27
• Start:  609
• End:  633
• Miles:  24
• Hours:  11
• High temp:  72
• Low temp:  41
• People met:  2

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View from the Mesa 

The morning sun found my tent providing a nice warmth. Just a little rain last night, but other places got more. 

I am elated by this mornings view and the clear sky.  I make my way along the trail as it skirts the edge of the Mesa. Every turn there are fascinating formations. 

The trail skirts the edge, it's just splendid 

The morning walk is filled with wonder. Soon I locate my next water source, a well with water from a spigot, just the best. 

The container had clear water as well 

Now my direction changes and I move away from the majestic valley.  

This valley is lush 

These have a wonderful scent

The clouds build as they always seem to do in the afternoon. Today the sky is darkening to the east. As I hike and time goes by the sky is dark in the south, then I see rain in the distance. I'm still in nice weather, but in another hour the west now has a cell. So I'm surrounded by thunderstorms which is very dramatic and beautiful. I'm heading directly west into the cell above the Mesa.  So at the first drops I gear up and not too soon, hail and rain pound down on me as the cell rapidly moves overhead. Just residual drops now as I leave my shelter of trees. The trail has become a muddy mess, with water running right down the middle. I trek through an open valley with low brush and grasses. I'm forced to walk on the grasses as the trail is so slippery I have difficulty walking on it. Finally at the Mesa and yes the trail will take me to the top. But to get there I must walk another muddy, slippery trail around to the north. Now the switchbacks start and I carefully climb. In places the trail is steep, I just keep my focus on the next step as I slowly ascend. At the top the wind is strong, but the sky has cleared. 

Almost to the top

That's the Mesa I just climbed

The trail follows that rim

The trail up here for the most part is level and sandy, just a few annoying muddy places. I enjoy the views from here while hiking to the far end of the Mesa shown above.  I make camp in a sandy, well draining high ground near the end of the Mesa. 

A splendid day!

The Land of Enchantment

• Day:  26
• Start:  583
• End:  609
• Miles:  26
• Hours:  12
• High temp:  65
• Low temp:  38
• People met:  0

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Came down this way for water

Water from the Indio Spring is supposed to be very good. It's located at the bottom of a canyon .5 miles from the trail. I work my way there down a nicely built trail. Fresh spring water is flowing from a pipe into a concrete tank. There is a lot of water flowing out.  Plus the area is fenced off to protect the source from stock contamination. 

 

Excellent water source from the pipe

Today the forecast is 60% chance of rain. Well the sky is completely overcast, but the clouds don't really look like rain. For most of the morning I'm on a trail snaking through the same pinion pine forest I slept in last night. The first drops of rain start at 1000 hrs. bringing with it the splendid scents of wet hay, wet earth, and sweet pine. 

First view from the this mesa

The big storm 2 days ago left everything muddy, I can see where others suffered the same muddy conditions I did. Everything is dry now but the imprints are still there. 

It's a bear, 5.5" measured side to side

 

Two days ago Mr Bruin came this way. 

Have to walk across that 

Just before noon I come to the edge of the Mesa.  Downhill 2000', from hiking at 8000' I go to 6000'. The air is a bit warmer down here, I able to take of my jacket. 

The valley is stunning with majestic shapes and grand walls. I am impressed all day with the spectacular views. I come to a river in the Arroyo Chico, only ankle deep but the only way across is to wade. 

Arroyo Chico

On through the desert I go following the cairns. Finally I reach the the other side of this valley and am greeted by beautiful rocks and walls. 

Looking back the across the valley I'm amazed I crossed it so quickly. 

El Cabezon

My camp spot

Today was simply outstanding as far as views in this magic valley. With grand views like this no wonder New Mexicans call the state the Land of Enchantment.