Rim Walk and The Malpais

• Day:  22
• Start:  43
• End:  66
• Miles:  23
• Hours:  12
• High temp:  68
• Low temp:  47
• People met:  1

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The Rim

The beginning of the Rim Walk is at this campground. I take in splendid views of the surrounding mountains and the valley below which has become an ancient lava flow, know as the Malpais or Badlands.  

Highway 117 looking south

The rim walk takes me along what seems to become a mesa. 

The Malpais below

 The cliff side is vertical and very high. My notes inform me there is a way down by a natural arch. Going back 4.5 miles is not preferred so I search for the way down. As I look I see that I'm very high and question the notes as if a way down is possible. 

Then I see a draw that slopes down to the valley. I bushwhack over to the draw and start slowly picking my way down. Many times I am concerned, but I figure the correct path and make the valley floor in about 45 min. 

The way down

The arch is impressive, but unlike others it has rock behind it making it appear as a hole instead of an arch. 

Daylight actually shines through

Now it's time to start the Malpais, a 9 mile trail through the lava fields. After getting a 5 liter water load from the Mumms water cashe, I strike out.  For most of this walk the trail is nonexistent, I have to go from cairn to cairn. 

Trail markets I must find

 Fortunately the carins are much closer together than the desert carins.  I find myself stepping across gapping cracks as I work this trail. 

Nothing is flat, rocks everywhere. In the beginning there isn't any shade. 

I hike steady and finally find shade provided by a sturdy little pine. 

I'm amazed that life finds a way out here. There are cacti, some with beautiful blooms. At one point I cross a deep crack and notice a sword fern, thIs seems impossible in the New Mexico lava fields. 

Unbelievable ferns

Finally I come to a section that supports growth, there is lots of shade now.  I come upon another hiker heading southbound named Bandana. We discuss hiking and this unusual trail. 

Amazing growth out here

 I take my second break under a pine on the soft pine needle ground.  This is grueling hard work, picking my footing carefully and constantly changing grade. After almost 4 hours I've come upon a smooth dirt path that takes me to the end of the Malpais.  

Only 1600 hrs so I can hike some more after a little celebration break.  I cross the highway to a totally different world, a almost park like forest and grasslands. I'm now on a dirt road, but after the Malpais I'm happy to be on it, it's just a wide trail.  

I hike through this valley for another 3 hours, stopping once at a windmill for water.  

The pipe is above the pool running nice well water

Today was a challenging and exciting day, one of the best so far. Tomorrow should see me in Grants in the afternoon for resupply.