Yosemite and The End of the Trail

Day 18

JMT Miles Hiked: 6

Hours Hiked:  3

Birdsong fills the morning air creating a fitting greeting for the last day in the trail. People are already advancing up the trail, the solitude of the wilderness is no more. I pass Little Yosemite Valley, where Josh, I and our friends camped after ascending the falls. Soon I start the descention, granite step after granite step.  I'm amazed that we climbed this steep trail, it's a challenge just going down. 

Nevada Falls

Half Dome or Bears in the Night

Day 17

JMT Miles Hiked: 19

Other Miles Hiked: 3

Hours Hiked: 9

We stand around like workers waiting for the factory call to work in the chilled morning air seeking the warming sun   It's 0800 hrs and the grill still not opened, finally the casual folks open the doors and we all come together in an organized line, ready to make our orders.  I enjoy some coffee along with bacon and eggs. The general store opens at 0900 hrs so I charge my phone and buy a banana and kumbucha. I chat with hikers about what to expect on the PCT. Scorpion and Midway are here this morning, I met Scorpion in Lone Pine at the hostel. He is thinking of finishing the JMT and calling it quits as his money is running out. I encourage him in his endeavors, then take my leave as it's still cold so I gotta hike. Into the forest I go up a gental grade, as I pass Catherdral Lakes I am alone in the woods because all the people on the trail went there. I see granite domes unique in their shape, they stand as sentinals guarding the way.

Tuolumne Meadows

Day 16

JMT Miles Hiked: 6

Hours Hiked: 2

The chill woke me early in the morning, I snuggled down into my bag getting comfortable. Ice on the rainfly and covering the meadows beyond. On the trail the sunlight reflects in the frozen meadow creating diamond like sparkles everywhere,  I feel like I'm walking in the stars. Sorry I am not able to capture this wonderful effect with the camera. But here are some more nice meadow shots. 

The northern end if the canyon. 

I turn west for another mile to find the campground, general store and grill. I select a campsite in the hiker only walkin area. There are tables and bear boxes I can stow my entire pack in. Plus the store and grill are just mInutes away. The store and grill look like early 49er mining town structures, made of canvas. 

I feast on a scrambled egg and bacon breakfast augmented with a banana and kumbucha from the store. Princess and Mr. Sandals are here, plus a few others I just met on the trail. After hellos and some relaxing chatting I catch the bus east for my permit. 

Back at my camp, I'm ready to go, but the weather seems a little dicey as the winds are blowing in some clouds. I think I hike after I post this tomorrow and check the weather. 

Lyle Canyon

Day 15

JMT Miles Hiked: 15

Hours Hiked: 8

Wind that sounded like jet engines as it tore through the few trees around me. My tent buffeted though the onslaught all night without reprieve. Not the usual afternoon wind that dies sometime in the night, nope this one is everlasting. Morning breaks and I hope with some sunlight heating things up the intensity  of the wind may change  a little. Yes there is a slight change in the intensity, I pack my gear. The good news is, through all the nights forces on my tent, my staking and knots held exactly as I set them. 

It my not look windy but it is. Lake Garnet. 

This wind has a nice icy quality to it, forcing my to layer and use gloves. I cross the small hillocks between Garnet and Thousand Island Lake,  here and there are a few small lakes that enhance the alpine beauitfully. 

Ruby Lake

Emerald Lake

Soon enough I'm at Thousand Island Lake and rejoining the PCT. This last 14.1 section was differentl than the PCT, but beautiful in a different way, more alpine experience. 

The wind has not let up, especially above the timberline. 

My next challenge is Danahue Pass, 

nothing compared to the first five passes. The best thing about this pass is; the gateway to Lyle Canyon, a 10 mile breathtaking meadow with the pristine Tuolumne River lazily meandering throught it. 

Looking north from Donahue Pass, Lyle Canyon off in the distance. 

Lyle Canyon. 

A splendid walk after descending the Pass. I find a campsite nestled in the trees, allowing protection from winds. I'm plenty tired because I didn't sleep well last night. I have about a 5 mike walk to Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow. There I can find provisions and get my Half Dome permit. 

Mammoth Lakes to Garnet Lake

Day 14

JMT Miles Hiked: 12

Hours Hiked: 6

Walking from the motel I notice the wind is up today, I wonder how it will effect my hike. 

Waiting for the free trolley for a ride to the village, it appears and then drives by. I guess I should have waved because standing at the bus stop seems meaningless.  A moment later a car stops and the driver says he can take me to the ski area lodge, this is much better. Jack , the driver, owns the local hostel, as well as being a hiker.  A few minutes go by standing at the lodge and a truck with a seismic testing  crew stop to offer me a ride to Devil's Postpile. In no time I'm viewing the Postpile and starting on the trail, thanks to the kindness of local people in Mammoth. 

Devil's Postpile 

I cross the middle fork of the San Joaquin and start my days journey. 

 

The walk today consists of a forest walk in some of the area damaged during the 2012 wind event.  Then on to a continual incline grade through white and red firs mixed with tamarak. Occasionally I am greated with a small lake. 

The mountain heather is blooming in small patches here and there. As I walk I can hear the wind in the tree tops, a gental breeze that works it's way down to me, making my hike pleasant. 

I miss the songbirds today as the forest has the Steller Jay as it's bird. For all the beautiful plumage this bird has why hasn't  it ever developed a suitable song to match. Perhaps it's the little mohawk it wears the gives it a bad attitude. Anyway forest squaking is fairly unpleasant, he leaves after a little while, ah peace. 

Rosile Lake

I relax on the shores of this little lake, taking some nourishment. I am not in a hurry to make distance today as I've got my permit and plenty of time to hike. 

A little alpine meadow at the top of the climb, plus this pretty little lake. 

I'll make my camp a Garnet Lake tonight. Descending into the Garnet Lake watetshed the wind is blowing across the lake. I find a suitable campsite offering some wind protection. I am buffeted by a high wind all evening, I hope this calms down by nightfall. . 

Reds Meadows

Day 13

JMT Miles Hiked: 12

Hours Hiked: 5

Wet Sierra earth scents drift into my tent rousing me from my slumber. I've always loved this scent a mixture of wet wood, pine needles and clean earth. The scent sparks memories of living at Tahoe and Truckee. I survied well last night with only a little dampness that can be resolved this afternoon. I pack quickly as the sunny clear skys bid me to hike.  Next next generation of adolescent chipmunks scurry everywhere. Their ears and tails are much to big for the little bodies, they a humerious to watch. I pass a small meadow, in the morning light the grass color seems so intense. 

The streams in this section have log bridges for crossing. 

The trail is mostly an even grade and high on the side of a mountain running through a nice forest. I come upon some of the damage done by an intense windstorm of 2012. I have an easier time on the trail this year than when I walked it in '12. Then I had to work around a lot of downed trees. 

Looking ahead one can see the downed trees. 

As the trail winds down to Red's Meadows I view the damage of a earlier and more intense wind event, it actually snapped big trees. 

I arrive at Red's Meadows finding an open cafe and store. As I drop my pack Mulberry pops his head out if the cafe and invites me in. 

Red's Meadows Cafe

We enjoy another meal together, the he takes his leave as he has more miles to hike. I remember that today is Joshua's birthday so I send him a special wish.  I look for a way to town as I've got a resupply box and the second half of my JMT permit to secure. Tradesmen are working on buildings in the area, a plumber appears as if he is going back to town, I ask for a ride and he happily obliged. Jared is his name, we enjoy a lively conversation about hiking, mountain living and plumbing. Jared drops me at the post office making my town journey very easy. I secure my box and a room for the night, then off to the Forest Service for my permit. I swing by the local pharmacy for some additional supplies. Back at the room I dry my gear, clean my clothes, and shower. Now to get the posts out to everyone. 

Thunder Storm

Day 12

JMT Miles Hiked: 16

Other Miles Hiked: 2

Hours Hiked:  10

 Did I forget to mention they have freshly baked pies?

A robust breakfast of an egg and bacon burrito in the company of Mulberry and Charlie-Tango, Mr Cup from Japan is at another table, we exchange greetings.  Into the jeep 4 of us load our gear, we drive to the skiff because the lake us so low.  Instead of hiking around the lake we are taking the water taxi. Jean our driver drops us on the lake bottom about 2 miles from the JMT. 

Lake bottoms are like a desert 

Silver Pass at 10,748' it is the first goal today.  I catch up with Mulberry at a ford, this one means getting wet. I put on my camp sandals and cross easily, want to keep my boots dry today.   I come across a peaceful meadow on the way up. 

The alpine section has a couple of lakes, from one I hear frogs singing. 

Looking south just prior to the pass

The climb takes the morning, we finally arrive at 1300 hrs. I leave Mulberry there enjoying his lunch, we both realize we may never see one another again as he is not going to Mammoth Lakes. I've enjoyed his brief companionship the last 2 days. He is an avid hiker about 70 years in age and enjoys the solitude of the mountains as I do. I enjoy the views from the pass mostly to the north, Silver Pass Lake lies at the base. 

Silver Pass Lake

The alpine section on this side is more spectacular than the south, lakes reflecting the mountain backdrop give me pause. 

A pleasant tread for awhile, easy to walk and enjoy the surroundings. 

Descending into the valley, I am accompanied by a nice stream. 

Another climb to a nondescript pass, fully exposed climb in the afternoon sun. Happy to say the cumulus clouds that have been building all day are now providing shade, the addition of a good cool breeze assists me in this climb of a "thousand" switchbacks.  Over the top lies Virginia Lake, so pretty I decide to take a break here. 

Virginia Lake

I would like to hike another 4 miles to Duck Lake area before I quit today.  I'm hiking at the edge of building thunderheads, splendid to watch the anvil heads develop. The sky to the north is a menacing dark gray. The trail actually turns into the menacing clouds and I hear the first clap of distant thunder.  It's far away, I continue on my plan to Duck Llake. After awhile the weather condition worsens, an occasional drop of rain, more dark sky. Ok I know the signs, but I'm on a steep slope where camp sites are difficult to locate. I find a suitable place by a medium tree well away from high points. I feel sure I can level the uphill side. Tent up and I see rain drops on it, as I load my gear inside the rain and hail start. I'm dry, my gear is also, the thunder and lighting show has started. As the storm moves over me the lighting flashes and tremendous thunder follows echoing off the mountains, deep, loud, and long.  I get to enjoy thus powerful show for about 2 hrs. The air is sweet with the smell of rain and it just drips onto my tent lightly now, the hail has melted and I am cozy in my bag. 

Zero Day

Day 11

VVR, Vermillion Valley Resort, is owned and staffed by friendly people that completely understand hikers. 

The front entry to the store and kitchen. 

A shot of the outside bar and eating area. 

They sport a small store featuring travel sized items and hiker gear replacement. The restaurant is rustic backwoods charm with well prepared food.  After a delicious breakfast burrito enjoyed in a dinning room full of hikers I tend to chores. Laundry is managed easily as no one else is in line. A through boot drying replete with foot powder, equipment cleaning and organization. I was able to secure a yurt to stay in. Yurts are round and simply made and covered with a vinyal treated canvas. Inside it is lined with a cheerful wood paneling. There is a small kitchen, table and chairs and a comfortable bed, plus it's own privy just a few steps outside. 

I fine tune my gear and organized my maps in the afternoon. I'm ready to hike tomorrow, tackling SilverPass. After 7 days in the trail I am recharged and refreshed.  

Muir Pass Or The Most Snow Yet

Day 9

JMT Miles Hiked: 21

Hours Hiked: 11.5

Sweet birdsong woke my to a exceiting and challenging day. I pack in a jiff as I want to tackle Muir Pass while the snow is still hard. Four miles to the top, I walk briskly. The sun is just showing on the western peaks. 

Looking back on the canyon I ascended, I marvel at the distance and altitude achieved. 

Valley of the Middle Fork of the King River

I pass through alpine meadows, this is one of the most beautiful canyons on the trip. 

The work is now to begin, ahead is a climb through the most snow on any pass so far. I'm pleased that the snow is firm, but surprised it is not hard frozen. The weather has warmed and the nights are not as cold as a few days ago, so the snow at lower altitudes is not hard. I climb carefully crossing the snow like walking on eggs, heavy foot placement may mean a posthole. 

Helen Lake

I continue to climb and the snow becomes firmer yet the top is starting to get slushy already and it's only 0830. I begin to become concerned about the descent. Finally the Muir Hut comes into view, I've made the pass. There are a few other hikers including Charlie-Tango, Princess , Mr Sandals and Arabian. 

Amazing that this structure is build here and so well.

On top!

Now I want to get going to avoid a difficult descent. The snow is softening even at this altitude, I set my line and start walking, carefully. 

Looking north from the Muir Hut 

Soon I'm low enought to be by Wanda Lake, still frozen. 

Wanda Lake 

Now the snow is softening in the morning sun, postholing is starting to happen. I get lower and the postholing is more frequent, there are shallow streams under the snow which get my feet wet as I break through. The whole mountain is wet, my boots become wet as well, not going to be a dry day. Finally the snow is gone and I can walk on the trail, and cross the Evolution Creek. 

Some rocks are under water, so just another wet boot crossing. 

The alpine scenery is superb, green grass, stunted trees, diminutive shrubbery.  Evolution Lake is spectacular. 

Evolution Lake

Now a descent into a deep canyon, this will take hours to get to the bottom. On the way I am suppressed to see wild onions in many places along the trail. I sample some, they are hot, yet have a pleasing taste. I enjoy the greenery in my diet and savor the onion taste. 

Wild onions, delicious

About now I'm thinking of food other than my hiker food. Even though I have a variety of wholesome foods, none sounds good to me today, I want a burger or a bacon, cheese, tomato, omelet. My resupply point in Mammoth Lakes is 40 miles away, maybe be there in 2 to 3 days. The trail is faster now and the passes will not be as herendious. The five most challenging passes have been met and achieved, plus Evoultion Creek a good size creek, I say river has been crossed. This creek can be a challenge to do, it is always feared. Today the current was pushing but it is manageable and the depth came to my knees, not a dry boot crossing. 

Evolution Creek

On for some more miles following the South Fork of the San Joaquin. This river runs in a deep canyon with the trail high above the ragging waters.  

South Fork of the San Joaquin 

After a while the canyon spreads out allowing the water to be accessed.   

I find a nice camp site right by the river. Been a long hard, satisfying day.