Time for the decision

August 7, 2026

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I awake early after a fitful night. I have come to the conclusion if the smoke continues for my health, I must abort this hike. I have thought of every way possible to make this work. I have covered all the contingencies but I can't control the fires. I have planned for months and finally I'm on the trail again, a wonderful free feeling that I have longed for. In 2 days my lungs hurt, if the air is clear I will normalize, if not I fear I will continue to damage my health. Sadly, I lay starring at the ceiling of my tent, telling myself I will know the answer when I rise.

I retrieve my food bag and break camp. The time has come. The air is even more smoky than yesterday, I have no idea how long this will last but when it keeps getting worse I feel the end is not close. I've got to abort.

The smoke is getting worse as I hike

I backtrack to a BLM road, 103, and head east. I know I-15 lies in that direction. I can smell the smoke, not just a hint but a real smell. I'm sad about this but I believe I've made the right decision, better to stay healthy and hike another day.

The hike out is about 10 miles. On the way a herd of cattle occupy the road and both sides, maybe 30 head. I have my reflective umbrella deployed for shade, amazing at cutting the heat. Well I suppose the cattle have never seen anything like me approaching them, a man with a pack and a shiny thing over his head, so they start trotting, but not away from me perpendicular into the fields, but staying on the road in front of me. This situation is not optimal as now I have fresh cow droppings to avoid and cow dust to contend with. I start shouting at the cows to get off the road, all but 2 comply. I round a turn to find even more cattle in the fields A little further I see 3 cowboys on horseback herding. My cattle dust problem is resolved. I wave as I pass them, they are busy but manage a courteous wave back. One rider stops to talk with me a bit. I explain my story and that I'm headed to I-15 to get a ride. He says "if I see you when I'm finished I'll give you a ride". I thank him, wishing him a good day. I'm now walking along 1-15 with a deep creek heavily filled with brush and the freeway right-of-way fence, no way to access the freeway here. I figure another mile or so to the freeway ramps and the possibility of a ride. Suddenly the cowboys appear hauling their horses and dogs in a trailer. They stop and ask me if I want a ride. It's a rhetorical question as I throw my pack in the bed and climb in. These Wyoming "cowboys" are 2 young men and a young woman. Very pleasant people and comfortable to converse with. I apologize for herding the cows hoping I don't make their job harder. In unison they said you helped us, we've been having a heck of a time getting these cows to move. One offered, we need to hire you to help us. Laughter all around. True to his word I got a ride back to Lima.

Once back in civilization I can see the active fires in the West. My decision timing is confirmed.

Fires in the West, more than I can remember

Air quality also confirms my decision

So reluctantly I'm heading home, already planning what I will do different next time. Maybe staring in July to miss, as the locals say, "Wyoming fire season".

Tags: cdt

Smoky

August 6, 2026

📍 Sawmill Creek — 44.507709, -112.555633 · Alt: 7774 ft (2369m)

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• Days Out: 2

• Hours: 12

• Start Mile: 2193.9

• End Mile: 2203.9

• Total Miles: 10 mi

• High Temp: 89 °F

• Low Temp: 46 °F

• Thru Hikers Met: 5

Sometime in the night the wind stopped. My tent is pitched in a bit of a draw, thought I was high enough to be away from the smoke. Since the wind has stopped there is nothing to keep the smoke away and it settled fairly thick.

This is what I woke up to

About 4 miles away is the next water source, I'm carrying 3 liters just in case. Upon arrival there are cows are in the area. Much of the trail now reminds me of a cattle ranch. The cows have created so many different trails that it is easy to take the wrong one. They have also fouled the stream that had water.

The cows have trampled the stream bed, even up the hill

As the trail winds along the dry creek bed where water was noted on the map, there is another creek coming joining the dry one, hope rises. Every point of access is fouled by cows. I continue on looking for the next source. I find one with an "area" that is not fouled. Load up with 4 liters after enjoying a big hydration effort of multiple drinks. To fill 4 liters it takes about an hour. Seems the new Sawyer filter is not allowing water to flow properly. I flushed it last night, this gave me little joy. An hour to get water is way too long, it severely cuts into my day.

Little Beaver Creek cow free area, kinda, to get water

Here's the valley that leads to water

The smoke is worse today than yesterday. My initial hope was the fires would get under control so I could enjoy the beautiful vistas. Not so, the big problem is my lungs are already starting to hurt and I am coughing. It is hard work hiking the uphill climbs having to breath deeply, seems like I'm not getting enough oxygen.

There's one of those cows

The trail is a mixture of cow trails and the CDT. Extra attention is required to stay on the correct trail. The coolness of a forest spotted with open green meadows is now the normal. I make it to another water source, Sawmill Creek. 4 liters later, rest then move on. Now the trail winds through some more conifers offering some shade and a refreshing change to the character of the trail.

The trees are a nice change, more cows not so much

The sun starts to set and so I'm looking for a place to sleep. The landscape has changed to the habitat of bears, this means I've got to hang my food bag tonight. I'm pleased with my hang, it's about 11' in the air and a good 7' from the tree trunk, looks safe. A good distance away and upwind I pitch my tent. As I get settled in for the night I am wondering how long this smoke will last.

Tags: cdt

Finally starting this hike

August 5, 2026

📍 Spring — 44.464192, -112.439537 · Alt: 8288 ft (2526m)

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• Days Out: 1

• Hours: 12

• Start Mile: 2178.2

• End Mile: 2193.9

• Total Miles: 15.7 mi

• High Temp: 80 °F

• Low Temp: 47 °F

• Thru Hikers Met: 4

0630 hrs I'm getting ready. The office is open and they can get me to the trailhead by 0800 hrs

A pleasant motel

. 4 hikers have already scheduled the shuttle. We are dropped at the trailhead which is a dirt road for several miles.

This is where I left off on a previous hike

The walk is flat and fast, these fields are populated with cattle. The cows have a look of concern as I approach, I attempt to soothe them, but frequently they bolt in an opposite direction. I am pleased I don't see any bulls wandering about.

Among all the sagebrush stands this lone flower

Eventually the trail starts climbing up the hills. Lots of steep climbs topping out at over 8500', a 2000' elevation change. No shade on this walk, but thankfully there is a consistent cool breeze, combined with the smoke is providing relief from the relentless sunshine.

Looking back hills that comprised my hike

Above there are raptors gliding lazily in search of prey. They are too distant for me to ID them other than a raptor. Occasionally their shadows pass over the trail as I walk. At one point I am startled as I flush a grouse. Seems these birds always wait to the very last moment to explode from their hiding spot. The hills are very peaceful, mostly silent save the sound of breeze. There are signs of horses and deer. The only creatures I see are flitting little birds and a very occasional chipmunk. The 4 northbound hikers had moved on well in front of me, they are thru hiking the CDT. And by this time have hiker legs and their bodies are accustomed to "this is what you do every day".

The trail follows the Idaho and Montana boarder. There is a barbed wire fence making sure of the boundary. It's old and not well maintained, with wires on the ground in places easily stepped over.

Every so often there appears a metal stake denoting the boarder

Water is scarce out here and I am making my way to the first real source. Off the trail and down the grade I can see the bright green foliage in the creek path. About 300' down I can get a small trickle of precious water 4 liters of water are filled along with several deep drinks. When I get back to the trail the sun is just dropping below the horizon. Exhausted it's time to pitch my tent and call this day an end. My mattress and bag feel like heaven.

Tags: cdt

Portland to Lima

August 4, 2026

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While readying to checkout I take advantage of the in-room espresso machine. Never seen an espresso machine in a room before, I suppose it is standard for the Pacific Northwest. Ahh a morning espresso in a real ceramic coffee cup, this sets the tone for a splendid trip to Lima.

The Alaska provided Lyft gets me to the airport with little effort. A no line check of my pack, followed by a no line security checkin, a great way to begin this flight.

Alaska loves Toy Story

I now have time to enjoy the Alaska lounge for a bit before my flight boards. I choose some tasty egg and potato offerings followed by fresh Pacific Northwest blackberries and raspberries that burst with flavor. Then a fun treat, I get to be my own barista with a magical espresso machine, offering a mind boggling amount of selections, I want one of these.

The CDT collation has sent a text informing me the Silvertip fire has closed the Spotted Bear and Bob Marshall wilderness areas, yet the CDT remains open even though it goes through these areas. I really want to stay on the trail and not hike a detour, I hope the CDT doesn't close in these areas.

The sky here is smoky, not so bad that I can smell it

An hour and a quarter in the air, finally to land in Idaho Falls. The summer weather here is a pleasant 70 degrees with a slight breeze. The Salt Lake Express is scheduled to pick me up at 2015 hrs by the rental cars here at the airport then go to their dispatch office, finally leaving at 2100 hrs for Lima. It's about a mile or so to the dispatch office, makes more sense to me to walk over there. I am allowed to stow my pack in the office while I shop. Bear spray and water are purchased at Walmart. Had to buy the bear spray here as the airlines frown upon it even in checked luggage.

This is a nice town

Around the corner is a Starbucks where I enjoy a relaxing time with a flat white and my book. Across the parking lot is a Longhorn Steakhouse. and that's where I will dine this evening.

1000 hrs the bus drops me in Lima at the Beaverhead lodge. The proprietor has given me my room number and a code for access, no need to wake anyone.

Tags: cdt

Reno to Portland

August 3, 2026

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At 3:00 AM, I check my phone for the time and notice a message from Alaska Airlines stating my flight is delayed by 2 hours with a new departure time of 10:15 AM. This is a BIG problem. I have a connecting flight leaving Portland to Idaho Falls that departs at 10:15 AM, not going to make that. Plus there is only 1 flight a day on Alaska from Portland to Idaho Falls. I realize nobody is going to get me out of this, I have to act. After making new arrangements with a very pleasant Alaska representative, I have a new flight, but on tomorrow, 8/4. That means I must reschedule my connecting bus from Idaho Falls to Lima, MT. Another very understanding representative easily reschedules my bus ride to the 4th. Alaska is taking care of my lodging, transportation and $48 food voucher for my stay in Portland.

Now I can relax again, it's 4:15 AM so I think I'll try to get some more sleep.

Uber gets me to the airport, checking my pack is simple and fast. TSA pre-check is thankfully a breeze.

Now the last piece of the puzzle, to reschedule my motel in Lima. After a brief phone call with the manager of the Beaverhead Inn my arrangement has been transferred to the 4th. All is put back together for a smooth trip to Lima.

The flight to Portland and the Lyft ride to my hotel go without a hitch.

Portland airport has a very new and refined feel

The sky in Portland is smoky giving the sun a deep orange look. I fear the sky in Montana may look the same. In the meantime I need to check in and walk the streets of Portland for an afternoon adventure.

The Hilton Duniway lounge and restaurant

My hotel and room are very comfortable. A Hilton bed always seems to provide excellent sleep comfort.

The streets of Portland are lined with unique buildings and even more individual specialty stores. One restaurant claims life is part pasta and magic. I come upon Powell's Bookstore, it looks like a small interesting place. Come to find out this is the flagship store claiming to be the world's largest independent new and used bookstore. I'm doubtful as how big could this be.

Powells entrance hides its true nature and size

Just a sample of the what it looks like in here

Once inside I discover a labyrinth of rooms filled with book shelves offering every imaginable topic a person could dream of. To top it off they an offer relaxing coffee shop. Powell's is truly a very large and complete bookstore, the largest I've ever seen.

I enjoy my afternoon stroll in this well mannered and attractive city. Frequent electric trains crisscross the streets as if every place you want to go is easily accessible. The citizens all seem polite creating a welcoming, comfortable atmosphere.

My evening meal of salmon and Thai carrots is unique and flavorful. A nice closing to the day that started out so early as a potential problem.

Tags: cdt

Tahoma to Reno

August 2, 2026

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My plan is to pickup the CDT at the highest mileage point I have achieved, Lima, Montana. My travels on this trail have been put together in many different ways through several section hikes. If all goes to plan this should be my completion section hike. To get to Lima I have 2 days of travel on several forms of transportation. As I leave for my adventure the morning air is already sweet with the scent of fir trees and the day is warming rapidly. I board the TART bus 0910 hrs at the Tahoma market. After a pleasant ride enjoying views deeper into the forest seldom seen by drivers, on a very uncrowded bus, I arrive in Truckee at 1010 hrs.

Truckee AmTrak station

Have about 4 hours before the AmTrak arrives, this allows me time for a leisurely breakfast. Jax is just across the tracks and they have a splendid hash. I arrive and get a table immediately in a tight 2 top, but it offers enough room for my pack and myself. Within 15 minutes the populace touring about the streets of Truckee decide in unison it seems they are all hungry. Now standing room only exists as the restaurant fills to capacity.

The hash at Jax, always a treat for me

Very easy first leg of my multi transit plan to get to Lima, Montana. The next leg involves AmTrak to Reno.

Truckee AmTrak

The train is 1/2 hour late, but I have a comfortable bench all to myself as the waiting area is empty. I prop my pack at a comfortable angle to use as a backrest and stretch out on my bench. I have my current book to occupy me for the wait. The sounds of the station are varied and constantly changing. In the background is a loop of my generation's music gently making its way to my ears. Mostly families appear seeking information from the visitors center and herd their children towards all the Truckee centric offerings.

In short order it seems the train has arrived. The good news is the coach car has an upper level with nice, plush seats and lots of leg room. The ride is pleasantly smooth with views I never get to see from the highway. My thoughts for a bit center on my great grandfather, Charles Poppe. He was employed as a conductor on the trains that traversed these very tracks.

My great grandfather is the taller man in the middle, Taken between Boca reservoir and Truckee.

A surprisingly large number of people are floating the river, many waving to us as the train glides by. I notice a small power plant never seen before along with homes I didn't know existed. Our arrival in Reno occurs a brief 45 minutes later. The tracks have been relocated below the city streets. We embark below street level and after a quick 3 level stair climb I'm on the street level with a short 1/2 block walk to my hotel, Whitney Peak.

N. Virginia St

A street fair is in full swing replete with a band playing tunes that appeal to a large cross section of the population, including me. After an early supper, satisfied with the trouble free first leg of my trip, I retire to my room preparing for a 0530 start to the airport.

Tags: cdt

Mack’s Alt

• Date 8-24-19
• Day:  19
• Start: 2028
• End: 2039  plus 17 alt
• Miles: 28. 
• Hours: 12
• High Temp: 71
• Low Temp: 41
• Thru Hikers Met: 8

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Summit Lake 

The wind died down creating a whisper quiet night and morning.  A cool morning and thankfully not as cold as the last few. Moving forward  on the trail the water is not as plentiful as we have been experiencing. We are carrying more now to finish the hike. 

  

Typical forest walk

Today’s hike is again an easy walk. Unbelievably the trail is flat and fast. This is the type of trail most people think of when I call the hike a walk. Simple , easy and fun.  We cross through dead burned forest into live open forest and then repeat the process again and again.  There aren’t any mountains in the distance over the tree tops like we are used to seeing, just open sky. The lack of  mountains makes me feel like I’m on top of the world.  

The trail is leaving Yellowstone and even Wyoming. This means we have walked over the years through New Mexico, Colorado and Wyoming for more than 2000 miles. 

Welcome to Idaho 

And we are out of  Yellowstone 

Finally a view of the world around us

Water is now scarce , we chose the Mack’s Inn alternate route because it has water. Our forest trail has merged with a dirt road.  With a light amount of dust causing traffic on this road is is not as nice as a trail.  As the trail elevation drops more and more signs of civilization appear. We are coming back to reality from our blissful hiking adventure.  The last 4.8 miles are on paved roadway with even more traffic, certainly not as much fun. 

Then it’s over and I have tied my CDT hiking together with the section starting where I just ended.  I now have the CDT complete up to interstate 15 and Lima. 

The hike we both shared was beautiful and inspiring.  There were more wonderful views and features than normally experienced on a hike of this distance. I am extremely satisfied and happy with this section hike of the CDT. Looking forward to completing the last of this great hike next year. 

Summit Lake

• Date 8-23-19
• Day:  18
• Start: 2014
• End: 2028
• Miles: 14
• Hours: 7
• High Temp: 69
• Low Temp: 33
• Thru Hikers Met: 5

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Old Faithful Lodge

Last night we had rain. We both stayed dry and comfortable, however our rain flys were laden with water this morning. I did my best to shake off the water, but I had to pack the fly still wet to dry later. We decided to start out at 0630 hrs without a breakfast to cover the 4 miles to Old Faithful Lodge. The Lodge is where the “all you can eat breakfast” is. That was our first order of business to consume as much food as our bodies would hold. The experience was pleasant in this beautiful part of our country’s history. 

That’s just 1 plate

A view from the second floor 

A fascinating clock

After breakfast we retrieved our resupply boxes from the front desk.  The staff was so delighted to talk with us about the CDT when we asked about showers they just gave us towels and wash cloths and pointed us to the showers, no charge. 

A second floor selfie  after a shower

We both organized our food resupply and took hot showers plus even shaved. 

Old Faithful 

After getting cleaned up we went over to the geyser to watch the eruption. We are there just in time to see it. 

Now off to the general store for a few items. We then dry our gear in an area no one used. The WiFi and cell service would not support my sending any updates. So we hiked on leaving Old Fsithfull at 1300 hrs. after a great stop over at the Old Faithful Lodge campus. 

On the way out we take a short alternate to view some more thermal features. 

A paved CDT walkway

The Firehole River

The end of the thermal features section is part of the CDT. We started a 1000’ climb out if the caldera onto a forested plateau. 

The sparkles are little pieces of obsidian. It is everywhere, in the streams and on the trail 

After an 10 mile hike we arrive at Summit Lake our last Yellowstone campsite. We are the only ones here so we get the best choice of sites. 

Meadow just before Summit Lake 

Summit Lake 

My campsite 

The close of another splendid day of Yellowstone and hiking experiences.