Friday, June 2, 2017

The Roller Coaster

  • Day:  81
  • Start:  991.2
  • End:  1011.2
  • Miles:  20.0
  • Hours:  11
  • High temp:  72
  • Low temp:  61
  • Thru hikers met:  5

 
Boardwalk through a swampy section

Last night I saw the lightning flashes through my eyelids and the thunder was close by and loud. Thankfully my campsite was spared the rain, in fact I had very little dew on my rainfly.  
Happily on the trail at 0630 heading to a close by stream for water. I briefly worry about Cheese and Einstein but assure myself they are experienced hikers and very self reliant. 
I come upon the feared section called "The Roller Coaster". 

 
A profile section of a portion of The Roller Coaster
Photo courtesy of Guthook

As you can see from the profile picture The Roller Coaster is a lot of ups and downs. While thankfully not long ascents, they are steep and very rocky. This section is 13.5 miles long and because of the rocks  and today mud it takes a while to complete. One great feature is there is lots of water so I only carry a liter today. While a challenge this section feels lush and wild.
So a memorable spot on this punishing trail today is another mileage mark made. 

 
WHAT?  Yep a 1000 

Within this section is an nicely build stone mansion with a lower portion turned into a hostel.  

The Bear's Den Hostel 

The place is closed until 1700 hrs according to a sign on the door. Darn I wanted to see this place and perhaps buy some food for lunch. As I walk around the back I discover a caretaker. He yells over to me the code to access the hostel lock. I look around, it's dark and cave-like inside with no hikers around. I notice a refrigerator with only the high fructose corn syrup sodas inside. I head back through the yard towards the trail telling the caretaker I was hoping for Gatorade. He say it's a $1 and how many can he get for me. I happily rest in the shade enjoying my rehydration. Time to finish the last 5 miles of The Roller Coaster. 

 
Spots of wild rose gracing the trail

A little rat snake that appears to have just shed it's skin 

Finished and thankful I'm through the Roller Coaster. Lots of memories in that section and lots of challenging hiking. 

 
Today's only view looking east

Another milestone today as I leave Virginia. 

 
Another state line 

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy has a trail support center .27 of a mile off the trail. I figure this may be a good place to go as they have water and a small bunk house. As I end my hiking day and turn to descend the steep trail to the ATC center I'm questioning my decision because I will have to climb this grade in the morning, plus I have water and can easily camp. I press on just to see the place. I put my gear on a bunk in the empty bunk house. 

 
ATC bunk house

The caretaker, Cheryl, comes over from the center and welcomes me. Making sure I'm a through hiker she offers me some hot food, lentil soup, corn on-the-cob, bread and a refreshing beverage with no HFCS. I am amazed that prepared food is available, this is a much better place than described. I enjoy the delicious food sitting a table on the screened-in porch. There is a little view of Washington DC in the distance. Soon more hikers appear and the place fills up.  A pleasant evening is had visiting with hikers I met in Luray, Cronk, Salty Camel and Tootles, as well as some friendly section hikers. 

 
The ATC center as seen from the bunkhouse, very nice

The Rain Forest

  • Day:  80
  • Start:  969.7
  • End:  991.2
  • Miles:  21.5
  • Hours:  9
  • High temp:  67
  • Low temp:  59
  • Thru hikers met:  0

 
Very few of these pretty flowers out

Yesterday evening Tootles arrives at the hostel. We last saw each other in Damascus. It was very nice visiting with him and finding out where others we know are now. 
Cheese, Einstein and Tootles leave to hike just after breakfast. I wait to get a ride to the post office from Scott I'm at the post office when they open to gather my resupply box.  Scott, the owner of the hostel, needed to drop his riding mower off at the repair facility then pickup me up. Back at the hostel I sort my food have a snack then start hiking at 0945 hrs.   Earlier this morning a fine rain was drenching everything.  As I start to hike the rain has turned into the cloud mist it us.  So I chose not to wear a rain jacket because I think I'll stay drier without one. 

 
The misty morning 

 
The Smithsonian owns the fenced land

As I hike away from the highway I'm along this fenced land owned by the Smithsonian Institute. Scott tells me they use the land to raise exotic species. This information makes me think of the Dean Koontz novel "The Darkest Evening of the Year".  Short version is a hybrid animal breed for war and a super smart dog escape from a facility like this, really a great read.  As I walk I imagine seeing such animals in the compound. 

 
The forest is dripping like a rain forest

The tread is wet and muddy in many places this morning. The forest canopy is protecting me from the rain that has now started.  Occasionally there is a dumping of fat drops from overloaded leaves, but this is only is small locations and it's mostly away from me.   I break out into an open field giving me a nice change of surroundings. 

 
A refreshing change of scenery 

Just at 8 miles in I meet Tootles resting at a park bench enjoying a soda left by a trail angel. There is a styrofoam cooler with more high fructose corn syrup beverages inside. I sit and chat with Tootles while avoiding the beverages and eating my food. We are about to tackle a 4 mile ascent which is our main discussion topic. 

 
Crossing this bridge starts my 4 mile ascent

The rain has stopped and the mist has lifted leaving a muddy tread to deal with.  The positive side is the forest is cool to hike in. 

 
This beautiful orange color caught my eye

 
The walk represents the most western boundary of the confederate line protected by Col. John S. Mosby and his men 

So I'm starting to notice poison ivy right next to the trail.  I take a picture of it to share with the guys on the trail today. 

 
Poison Ivy. 😐

Tootles, Cheese and Einstein all get bunched just below the summit of our big ascent. I'm glad I took the picture as everyone needed a refresher on identification of poison ivy.  
The forest is so lush now it is not easy to find a camping spot that isn't developed.  We are all heading to a stream location 6 mikes away hoping to find some suitable locations for setting up our tents.  Getting close to the 6 mile location I pass through an open field. I'm in a State park now and the have forbidden camping in these fields. Not really a good idea anyway as the grass will soak everything in the morning. 


A pleasant walk through these open fields. In the background you can see thunderheads developing. 

As I enjoy the open fields I can hear the thunder like cannonades in the distance. I'm watching the sky to see if the storms are coming my way, yes it may be so as cloud cover is coming in with some wind. I quicken my pace with my gaze watching for a camp site.  I arrive at our chosen location and a see a couple of sites which are really wide spits on the trail. I wait a while to see if the others are still hiking. They do not appear so I hike on leaving them the possible sites. I cross a highway and climb back into the forest. The urgency of finding a camp site has diminished as the rain seems to have past and the clouds have moved away from me. Still it's 1830 hrs and I'm getting tired I need to locate a spot. This forest has a less dense understory giving me some opportunities. I check out a few but am not happy because of they are not level enough. Then I find a good spot with great drainage away from my tent. I create a runoff trench at the uphill side of my rainfly to direct any water coming off away from my tent. I'm ready to weather a storm tonight if one comes.